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RONDA

Nothing is more surprising in all of Spain than this wild little city.  I have searched the dreamed city everywhere, and have at last found it in Ronda! Come and see...
Rainer Maria Rilke





'We sighted Ronda.

 It was raised up in the mountains, like a natural extension of the landscape, and in the sunlight it seemed to me to be the most beautiful city in the world.'

J. Agustín Goytisolo
 


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Situated in the Serrania de Ronda mountain range, Ronda is perched high atop the edge of a steep chasm and  overlooks the El Tajo gorge, which splits the town in two.The two halves of the town face one another, with the ancient Moorish quarters on one side, and the more modern section of El Mercadillo on the other. A stone bridge spans the gorge, linking old with new. Crossing the Puento Nuevo is an excitement not suitable for everyone. It is a five hundred foot drop to the river below.
Dark Tales surrounding the stone bridge abound: Ronda's famous bullfighter Pedro Romero came home early one day to find his wife in bed with her lover. In a jealous rage, he stabbed the lover through the heart, then carried his wife through the streets and threw her over the edge of the Puento Nuevo. It was as they say, a crime of passion. When Prosper Merimee heard this dark tale, he immediately began to write the famous story Carmen, which Bizet later turned into an Opera.







R
onda has Spain's oldest and most beautiful bull ring, The Plaza de Toros, built in 1785 and is still active today. The ring was also used as a backdrop by Madonna in her 1994 music video for the song Take A Bow. B
ullfighting aficionados discuss it in the cafe's as though it were only yesterday.  Twice a month, the Plaza de Torros transforms itself into a giant flea market and Gypsies from all over Andalusia are drawn to the open air of the historic ring to sell their wares. There are excellent deals to be made for those who know how to bargain.


Orson Wells had a deep connection to Ronda and the local Ordonez family of bullfighters. And although he died in his Hollywood Hills home,
he chose Ronda as his final resting place and is buried in a graveyard of bulls on the outskirts of town.





R
onda was Ernest Hemingway's favorite city in all of Spain.
He said that it is the perfect place to bolt with someone and for romance, even better than Paris!



He used the dramatic scenery as a backdrop in his novel, For Whom the Bell Tolls, describing prisoners of the Spanish Civil War being thrown alive over the edge of the Puento Nuevo








THE GYPSY CHRONICLES and RONDA


When I began writing The Gypsy Chronicles  the story took place in the wine producing region of Rioja. Basque country. My Gypsies did not care for Rioja and  insisted upon a move... Somewhere in Andalusia they said, and so I moved my characters to Seville...
Wonderful, thought I, Seville!  The birthplace of my soul... But alas, the fresh joy of that relocation was not to last. Some of the characters found it impossible to settle.
Seville suited my Gypsies well enough, but the wine makers were without a suitable terroir in which to plant their vines. Seville will not do, they warned ~ a higher, cooler altitude is required to produce our fine red wine. Searching for a city in Andalucia that produced fine wines I found Ronda and as it turned out it was perfect for every character in the book: My Gypsies were pleased because it is located in Andalusia; the wine makers were impressed with the excellent terroir; the Saint rejoiced, for there is a convent; and the diamond thief? Well look around: Bandoleers used to hide out in the rocky mountainous caves surrounding town. Ronda was perfect! And so, just weeks before the book was headed for the bindery, I began to rewrite, deepening the sense of place.



Semana Santa inspired the wedding procession scene:  Virgin Estrella de la Flamenca and Alejandro Sabicas ride atop a Charmed Matrimonial bed through the narrow alleyways of Ronda. Steven Siciliano said that The Gypsy Chronicles is unorthodox - he is right!


While singing the popular Spanish cursillos folk song De Colores it is customary to join hands and sway while singing. The song is an expression of one's soul, full of grace and as beautiful as a 'field blooming in Springtime colors.'The charm of this beloved folk song is used to great effect in The Gypsy Chronicles.

Ronda



Ronda Quotes




Ronda is a city hung in the sky on a mountain split in two by the work of the Gods.
Pablo García Baena



In Ronda, one of the most impressive gorges on the face of the earth. In Ronda there are many streets that should be marked with a sign for tourists: TO CHAOS. In any stretch of countryside or street which offers itself to the tourist he is told imperiously that this way he will get to the Cathedral, the Museum. But in Ronda there are many streets which take us to ourselves. The gorge has no obligations to the guides. One leans over the edge of it and may find in its depths fear, prophecies, prayers or poems
José María Pemán


The little houses in this street in Ronda, with their bay windows on the ground floor, look as if they were developing a belly. These others have their bay windows high up… they lean their foreheads forwards. One would think that both sides of the street wanted to get closer to each other to tell a malicious secret about the visitor who is passing.
Eugenio D’Ors


In Ronda there are many streets that arrive at ourselves. The gorge does not have any commitment with the guides. One looks over it and can find at the bottom, fear, predictions, prayers or verses.
José María Pemán



“Where that captivation, that yearning for a typical Andalusian city, of the people, that security for after, that stopped time? This is, here is Ronda Serranía de Ronda… …Ronda: High and deep, round, profound, round and tall”
Juan Ramón Jiménez



The spectacle of this city, sitting on the bulk of two rocks rent asunder by a pickaxe and separated by the narrow, deep gorge of the river, corresponds very well to the image of that city revealed in dreams. The spectacle of this city is indescribable and around it lies a spacious valley with with working fields, oaks and olive groves. And there in the distance, as if it had recovered all its strength, the pure mountains rise, range after range, forming the most splendid background…Nothing in all of Spain is more surprising than this wild little town. I have searched the dreamed city everywhere, and at last have found it in Ronda. Come and see...
Rainer Maria Rilke



 Ronda is an elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban, and its towers as a sword belt.
Abú al Fidá  (1273-1331)


We sighted Ronda.
It was raised up in the mountains, like a natural
extension of the landscape, and in the sunlight
it seemed to me to be the most beautiful city in the world.
J. Agustín Goytisolo